Add a pre-fabricated steel garage to your property...

As for the aesthetics, your new metal garage can easily be designed to match the exterior of the other buildings on your property, or have a completely new look. A wide variety of facades and finishes as well as flexible, innovative design allows your new metal garage to comply with any neighborhood covenants or design parameters.

Top 10 Reasons to Buy a Steel Garage…

1. Lower Cost- It’s possible to save as much as 50% of what you might pay for conventional types of construction.
2. Speed in erection- You will have the use of your new metal garage much sooner.
3. Long lifespan and long warranties- Steel garages are frequently guaranteed for 50 years, and require very little maintenance, especially as compared with wood buildings.
4. Lower Insurance Costs- Up to 40% less.
5. High resistance to seismic activity and high wind/hurricane
6. Pre-cut steel components are more efficient to manufacture than conventional materials-everything joins together perfectly at the jobsite.
7. Plentiful options for an attractive exterior finish that fits the aesthetics of the community. Choices include many colors, brick, slate, stone or stucco finishes can be attached as well. Your steel garage does not have to look like one at all!
8. No problems with termites, rotting, splitting, insect infestation in walls, etc.
9. Ease and flexibility in expanding the size of the garage if it becomes necessary at some future time.
10. Energy Efficient- save money on interior climate control, maintain ideal storage conditions.

Planning the Project from Start to Finish…

Although building a garage is not usually a project for someone with no construction experience, the modern pre-engineered metal garage kit is designed so simply that even a novice can do it. Pre-marked components, pre cut openings, pre- assembled roof trusses and metal fasteners have revolutionized garage building!

However, there is still a lot of planning and details to be worked out before you rush out, rent that cement mixer (for the foundation) and plunge right in.

Key areas to consider:

1. What size garage?
2. What outside appearance?
3. Will you need plumbing?
4. If the garage will be a workspace, will you need insulation?
   Click here for more info about insulating a steel building.
   
5. Where and how many doors and windows?
6. Which parts of the project, if any, will you build yourself; which parts will you contract out?

Once you have a clear idea of what you want in a garage, the real planning begins. Check the local zoning office, as well as building code and permit requirements before beginning any building project. This used to require a phone call or trip downtown, but now can easily be done online for most areas in the country.

Zoning Approval …

Zoning is the first step for anyone who wants to know if the proposed use of land is allowed, i.e. - is it legal to build a garage on your land?

Each city or town has its own zoning regulations, which govern the administration of the ordinance and specify the uses allowed and development standards for each zoning district.

The Zoning code is based on a basic set of parameters. There are rules that outline maximum or minimum requirements for things such as building width and height, location in relation to property lines, as well as requirements specific to particular building uses. As long as your proposed garage falls within these parameters, you are free to build according to your own tastes and needs – of course, with building permits.

If your plans do not fall within these parameters there are two choices- adjust your plans or apply for a variance. Getting a variance is a time consuming process, and there is no guarantee that it will be approved in the end.

If you are planning a metal garage project, talk to the Zoning office sooner rather than later. It’s definitely better to have all the information you need when you can still make changes to your plans.

Permits...

Depending on your location and the type and use of your building, you will need various permits to make sure that the work is done in compliance with those ordinances. For projects using a contractor, the contractor is responsible for obtaining the necessary permits.

Different locales have various different ordinances to regulate construction, maintenance, and remodeling so that the buildings will be safe. It is likely that a city will have many more specifications and restrictions on building than a rural area.

Some types of permits you may need include:

• Building Permits
• Electrical Permits
• Environmental Permits
• Mechanical/Heating Permits
• Plumbing Permits
• Sign Permits
• Soil Erosion Permits
• Street Use Permits
• Wrecking / Moving Permits

Have your building supplier provide certified, stamped and engineered blueprints so that you can be sure your steel building is in compliance with code.

To obtain the building permit, you will also need to supply the following information:

• A description of all plumbing, mechanical, and electrical work that you plan on doing.
• Because your new steel garage will raise the value of your property, it will probably also raise your property taxes. You will need to present the fair market value for the completed project, including the cost of materials and labor.
• A copy of the contract, if a contractor is performing the work.

Your permit(s) should be posted at the project site.

The last page of your permit has the building inspector`s name and phone number on it. Contact the inspector directly if you have questions about your project or to schedule an inspection. You will need the permit number and the address where the work is being done to schedule an inspection of the work.

If you are issued an inspection record card, post the card at the job site for the inspectors to make notes. Your approved site plan (if any) must be available at each inspection.

Sometimes a site plan, a zoning site review, and an inspections plan review are required before a permit can be issued.

Site Plan...

A site plan is a drawing of your property. It must show the property lines, any structures that currently exist on that land (house, garage, fence, etc) and where your planned garage is to be located. For this you need to locate the metal stakes that mark the corners of your lot. These are often buried a few inches underground and are set 1 foot in from the actual lines.

The dimensions of the site must be accurate. If you can`t find these property line markers yourself, you will have to hire a licensed surveyor to locate them in order to draw up the site plan.

A site plan should include:

• An arrow indicating north
• The scale of the drawing.Draw the site plan to the most appropriate scale, for example, 1” = 10’.
• Property lines, which will need to be physically located. You might need to hire a surveyor. A typical residential lot survey costs approximately $700 to $900. It can be more if your land is irregular in shape or has other unusual features. You should obtain estimates from several surveyors.
  ( While it may seem expensive to hire a surveyor, it will be cheaper than having to relocate the building after construction begins, or legal costs caused by encroaching on someone else`s property.)
• Adjacent streets and any easements.
• The distance between buildings and between buildings and property lines.
• The dimensions of the existing buildings.
• A clear indication of the proposed addition.

Site plan review...

A site plan review determines compliance with local ordinances and applicable state building and mechanical codes. Once your site plan is approved, the next step is to apply for permits.

Inspections...

Inspections are required by most state laws and frequently by city/town ordinance for any work requiring a permit. Inspections make sure that your project meets safety requirements, complies with state law and city codes, and follows the approved plan.

Before you call for an inspection appointment, make sure that the project is ready. If you are using a contractor, the contractor will schedule the inspection. If you are not using a contractor, you or a person older than 18 must be at the property during the inspection.

There is no fee for the first inspection; it is covered by the permit fee. However, if the job is not completed at the time of the inspection or if multiple inspections are needed for the same job, there may be an additional fee.

More than one inspection may be performed during construction if:

• The work does not meet code requirements.
• The work is not completed.
• The project involves more than one area of expertise.

If you have a building permit, the inspector will date and initial the final inspection item on the permit. For other permits, the inspector will leave a copy of the inspection report.

If the work is not complete, if there are code violations, or if the inspector did not have access to the property to do the inspection, the work will not be approved. You will need to correct the problem and schedule another inspection. In that case, a re-inspection fee may be charged.

Subcontractors…

Chances are however that you will subcontract out some of the work. For instance, the erection of the building might be something you are willing to tackle yourself, but you might prefer to hire out pouring the foundation.

Get quotes from at least 3 people for each subcontracting task. Check out the BBB (Better Business Bureau) for complaints against any potential subcontractors. Look for highly experienced companies that have been around a while. In general, the fewer references and thus shorter time in business the more risk there is for less than high quality workmanship. It’s important to communicate your plan, expectations for timing, and expected payment clearly.

Erecting a Steel Garage…

It’s important for a do-it-your-selfer to develop safe work habits and stick to them...

• Read and follow the specific safety rules of every tool and material you will be using. Select the appropriate tool for the job and keep all tools sharp and in good working condition.
• Unplug tools when changing blades or making adjustments.
• Wear heavy soled boots on any construction site; rubber soles when working on the roof; and protective eyewear whenever power tools are in operation.
• Wear ear protection when using power tools as some operate at levels that can damage hearing.
• Keep work surfaces and traffic areas free from scraps and debris.
• Hard hats are recommended when working under or around overhead construction.
• Use scaffolding when working on high places. The added stress of manipulating heavy and unwieldy tresses and sheathing can cause you to lose your balance. Be careful where you step; move slowly and with caution. Be sure no one is standing below the work unless absolutely necessary.
• Work patiently. Never bypass safety to save money or rush a project. Make sure all workers know the safest and most productive way of erecting a building. (This information will be in the “Erection Manual” supplied with the garage you have purchased.)
• Make sure emergency telephone numbers, location of first aid stations and emergency procedures are readily available and known to all.
• Avoid working in weather which puts people at risk from high wind, lightning, hail, heavy rain or snow, etc. This is common sense, but the desire to finish the garage quickly can sometimes override common sense.

Before Your Garage is Delivered…

Before your metal garage arrives, the foundation should be ready, to avoid delay in assembly. Most metal building manufacturers recommend that the foundation be designed by an experienced professional foundation engineer. This will insure proper design, make the actual erection of the building go a lot smoother and reduce costs.

If you decide to pour the foundation yourself, research it thoroughly first. Proven construction techniques and adherence to OSHA and other local codes are highly recommended.

The importance of accurate foundation construction and anchor bolt settings cannot be overemphasized! Foundation errors and improper location of anchor bolts are the most frequent and troublesome errors made in metal building construction. The foundation must be square, level, and the anchor bolts must be in the locations as specified in the Anchor Bolt drawing provided by your steel building manufacturer.

In no case should building erection be started on “green” concrete. Anchor bolts may pull loose, concrete spall (chip out along edges) may occur and equipment may crash or crack slab. Normal Portland cement should cure in at least seven days and high-early-strength concrete in at least three days. Special circumstances may require even longer curing periods!

Another thing that must be handled before the delivery of your steel building is access to the site. Obviously, the vehicle transporting your building must be able to access the site from the adjacent highway or road. This access must be prepared in advance of the truck arriving!

Any obstructions or anything in the way needs to be removed. Check the planned building site to make sure there is enough space to physically perform the tasks required to erect the building. The proximity of adjacent buildings and other obstructions can severely hinder the construction process.

The availability of any required utilities must also be considered in advance. Take note of any overhead power lines, and notify your utility company if necessary.

Some tips for easiest and fastest assembly…

A lot of time and trouble can be saved if your building site is organized with a pre-arranged plan.

1. Columns and rafters are usually unloaded near their respective final positions, for speedy erection.
2. Columns and rafters are usually unloaded near their respective final positions, for speedy erection.
3. Endwalls are laid out at each end of the concrete slab with the columns near their respective anchor bolts.
4. Hardware packages should be located centrally, usually along one sidewall near the center of the building, to minimize walking distances to other parts of the slab.
5. Sheet packages are usually stored along one or both sidewalls off the ground and sloping to one end, to encourage drainage in case of rain.
6. Accessories are unloaded and stored on a corner of the slab or off the slab near one end of the building, to keep them out of the way. Endwalls are laid out at each end of the concrete slab with the columns near their respective anchor bolts.
7. Hardware packages should be located centrally, usually along one sidewall near the center of the building, to minimize walking distances to other parts of the slab.
8. Sheet packages are usually stored along one or both sidewalls off the ground and sloping to one end, to encourage drainage in case of rain.
9. Accessories are unloaded and stored on a corner of the slab or off the slab near one end of the building, to keep them out of the way.

Here is a highly condensed version of the basic steps in erecting a steel building…

1. Erect the primary framing, consisting of I-beams. These are the first components that you will bolt together and fasten to the anchor bolts already in your foundation.
2. As soon as some of your primary frames are in place, you can start to bolt the secondary framing, comprised of girts and purlins. Running horizontally the length of the building, they provide support for the wall and roof sheeting.
3. The wall and roof panels attach via the use of self drilling fasteners.
4. Weather stripping is installed with the wall and roof panels to keep the building from leaking.
5. Trim finishes off the building both in appearance and weather proofing.
6. Accessories, such as doors, windows, vents and gutters are the last step!

Click here for more detailed info about erecting a steel building.

All Metal Garage Kits are NOT Created Equal…

Choose a steel building manufacturer with an AISC-MB certification. This assures that the company has faced thorough engineering and production audits by independent inspectors. The AISC-MB Certification is your guarantee that the manufacturer uses the optimal methods to provide high-quality, reliable buildings.

Ultimately, every customer wants the highest quality steel building at the lowest possible price. However, all pre-engineered, metal garage kits are not of the same quality.

Here are some features to look for:

• 20 yr. Paint warranty
• 50 yr. structural warranty
• 80,000 psi. Strength sheeting (resistant against ding and dents)
• 26 gauge, w/ 1 ¼" Attractive sheeting profile (beware the “economy” garage, made of 29 gauge steel- it is flimsy and not as reliable)
• Solid- I Beam Construction
• Pre-welded clips for ease of erection (most manufactures only supply the clips)
• Pre-punch Components
• Girt and Purlins overlap for additional structural integrity
• Framed openings have C-section jambs and headers for easy installation of Over-head doors
• Submerged Arc/Welded Frames
• Fully trimmed at gable, corners and eaves for a more finished look and additional protection from dust and wind seepage
• All necessary components to erect and finish the building are included.
• Matching finished, self drilling, self-tapping lifetime fasteners for roof and wall panels
• Cable bracing and/or /portal frame and/or rack brace to add strength and rigidity.

Everything you ever wanted to know about components of a high quality steel garage…

PRIMARY FRAMING (Consisting of columns for sidewalls and rafters for roof)

SOLID I-BEAM construction for optimum strength, minimum 50,000 and 36,000 p.s.i. yield strength. (Some Manufacturers use 35,000 p.s.i. yield strength material, which is not as strong.)

FRAMES are single bead, continuous are welded by automatic welding machines to help insure quality control and then a factory primer coat is used to help protect them during the erection process.

ENDWALL FRAMES AND COLUMNS are either cold formed, mill-rolled or built-up "I" sections depending on design requirements.

SECONDARY FRAMING

GIRTS (in sidewall) and PURLINS (in roof) - 8" or 10" to meet design requirements. Bypass girt system overlaps at sidewall columns forming a continuous "beam" for extra strength.

PURLINS- top-mounted on the rafter with a varied lap of 1ft to 5ft for strength and cost savings in erection labor. Maximum purlin spacing is 5ft on center.

EAVE STRUT- a cold-formed C-section that is rolled for the appropriate roof pitch to help insure weather tightness at the eave.

RAKE ANGLE- a continuous angle supplied for the attachment of the sheeting at the rake of the building for ease of installation.

BASE ANGLE- a continuous angle supplied for the attachment of the base of the sheeting to the concrete. Base Angle is to be attached to the concrete with rams-sets or equivalent anchors by others.

BRACING- Diagonal galvanized cable bracing is supplied for roof and walls to remove longitudinal load from the structure. Galvanized cable is used rather than solid rod to prevent the bracing from "sagging" under its own weight and is easier to install.

Angle Flange Bracing- for the connection of the rigid frame to the purlins and girts. This makes sure that allowable compressions are adequate for any combination of loadings.

FRAMED OPENINGS- use cold-formed C-section jambs and headers to help insure easy installation of over-head doors, etc. SHEETING- 26 Gauge - 80,000 P.S.I. yield material standard. Some manufacturers use lower yield strength material, which is less resistant to damage from hail or other impacts.

ALL COIL STEEL- G-90 class galvanization (1.25oz hot dipped) on each side to help prevent deterioration of the steel sheeting.

SIPHON GROOVE- rolled into all High-Rib roof sheeting to provide a built-in "gutter" system every 36" for the entire length of the building helping to prevent water from migrating into the roof system.

STRUCTURAL BOLTS- meet requirements of ASTM Standards. A-325 for primary frame connections. A-307 for secondary framing.

SELF-DRILLING AND SELF-TAPING FASTENERS- pre-assembled with neoprene washers and metal caps to help insure weather tightness.

CLOSED CELL NEOPRENE STRIPS- with self-adhesive backing used to help seal building. Located at eave, gable and base of building to help provide weather tightness. Pre-formed shapes to match panel configurations providing a tighter seal.

1 ½" SHEETING NOTCH- at base of concrete where panel sits is designed into every building. Sheeting notch provides an air infiltration stop on blanket insulated building.

SEALANT- for roof sidelaps, endlaps and flashing at gable to help insure weather tightness. Nominal 3/8" x 1/8" thick pressure sensitive tape sealant for ease of installation.

RIDGE CAP- long overlap to help prevent water from siphoning into building.

TRIM AND FLASHING - fully trimmed at corners and eaves, with standard trim material for a more finished look. Not only improves look of building but is an additional deterrent to moisture, insects and dirt getting into building.

RERERENCES:

City of Minneapolis, http://www.ci.minneapolis.mn.us/mdr/Exterior/garage.asp

Instructables, http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-garage-from-the-ground-up/

http://www.buildingsguide.com/garage-building-kits.htm

Do It Yourself.Com, http://www.doityourself.com/scat/garages

Rigid Building Systems, http://www.rigidbuilding.com/index.htm

GiveAway Buildings, http://giveawaybuildings.com/feature.asp